One of the great pleasures of following the Cricket World Cup this past month has been the chance to spend time with cricket fans and glimpse the global and diasporic affinities that simultaneously connect them and set them apart, in a metropolis like New York, from the mainstream culture of the city. Cricket is a niche sport even in immigrant-rich New York, since, after all, only a fraction of those immigrants come from cricket-playing countries. Yet the diversity of the cricket community, drawn as it is from all corners of the former British Empire, and the fact that all those places have a critical mass of expatriates or immigrants in New York, has produced in this World Cup season a kind of hyper-cosmopolitan sub-culture; one that, in its own way, illustrates the cross-hatching of differences and solidarities that makes life in the city complex and stimulating.
I’ve tried to capture some of that joyous complexity in a radio story that ran yesterday. The reporting (only a fraction of which made it into the piece, radio being like film a craft where most of your work ends up on the cutting room floor) led me to such arduous research environments as the Australian pub 8 Mile Creek, where expats of various nationalities were toasting the home side’s demolition of England with six-dollar bottles of Cooper’s Sparkling Ale. But it also gave me an introduction to the Indo-Caribbean community in Richmond Hill, Queens; and the revelation to my new-to-New-York eyes of the sheer size of that community, let alone its history and apparent present dynamism, will be the lasting memory of this World Cup in my personal experience.
Occasional commenter “Farouk Engineer,” who took the photos in this post and has U.K. ties, commented to me that he’d never found a New York neighborhood that reminded him so vividly of London — particularly certain parts of South London — as this one. Of course the ethnic makeup and the cultural signifiers on display along Liberty Avenue, the main drag, have everything to do with this. The 15 blocks or so in either direction from the end of the elevated train (the Lefferts Blvd terminus of the A train, for you NYC-ers) are replete with shops and services that reflect the double-diaspora lives of people whose ancestors were taken not so long ago as indentured laborers from (mainly) Bihar and eastern U.P. to Trinidad and Guyana, and who themselves have formed a large colony here. The Indo-Guyanese in particular, who began migrating to the U.S. in the 1960s when politics in Guyana (with a documented assist from the C.I.A.) became factionalized on racial lines, remain one of the city’s fastest growing groups. The Hindu temples, masjids, halal butchers, sweet shops, music stores offering huge selections of Bollywood alongside soca and chutney music, sari emporia, vegetable markets, and obligatory outpost of the Patel Bros grocery empire indicate not only the vitality of this community but also the strong connections it retains with the cultural memory of the Desh.
At the same time, Liberty Avenue is far, almost remote, and certainly many miles away from the stomping grounds of New York hipsters, machers, moneywallahs and mavens. Even “Farouk,” an inveterate urban explorer, hadn’t made it out there in a decade living here. Conversely, Indo-Caribbeans like Imran (named after Imran Khan, he told me) and Chris, two young Guyanese brothers in their 20s that I met on a rainy afternoon in the Kaieteur restaurant on Lefferts Blvd., told of a community that, whether due to the distance or underlying insularity or some combination of the two, sticks largely to itself. With generational comes attitudinal change, yes; Imran explained that he has Black friends, for instance, even if he knows he can’t bring them back to his parents’ house. But the overall social model at work here seems to be that of classic immigrant, nose to the grindstone accumulation, where “assimilation,” whatever that is, is more likely to occur not in Queens or even New York City, but rather in the suburbs where the next generation aspires to raise its kids. “We’ve got our whole lives mapped out,” Chris told me; he’s getting married soon to an Indo-Guyanese sister (“light skin, green eyes,” he pointed out proudly), they’re buying a Range Rover and they’ve pulled together funds for the down payment on a house in New Jersey.
That’s just a vignette, of course, one of many but each nothing more than a glimpse. I take from my first exposure to this particular component of the desi diaspora only impressions, ones that I hope to develop, complicate or dispel in the course of future projects and wandering. But chance encounters have their own merit and meaning, and these would not have happened were it not for the cricket, the common thread that gathered us in the bar, the roti shop, or for that matter the Ozzie pub back in Manhattan. Whether playing or watching, the essence of team sport is human connection, and between the running commentary that has taken place here (Anna’s happy novitiate, Vivek’s pleading for wickets, TajUK‘s recommendation of C.L.R. James’ Beyond A Boundary stand out in my mind) and the IRL conversations I’ve had in the viewing spots of New York, this World Cup, for all its bizarre and problematic news developments, has been a season of plenty.
And another thing: GO SRI LANKA!!!
Anybody know of a pub showing the WC finals in Ohio(Cleveland,Columbus or Cincinati)?
“Go Sri-Lanka”
i second that with a full-throated yet silent (and SFW) roar.
Was playing tennis-ball cricket yesterday and had to jostle for elbow room with two desis playing actual tennis in the next court. Couldn’t really tell if they were annoyed, amused or contemptuous but it was quite interesting to see two colonial hand-me-down sports that brown people have made their own (more in the case of cricket)vying for the same (dare I say , “cultural”?) space.
You left out some important info, Sid Uncle.
The young folk want to know: how much were the beers at Singh’s Roti Shop & Bar?
Went to Asia vs the rest of the world match at the oval a few years back; it was a moment when the desi’s were by no means the minority then. A group of old south African and Caribbean ladies sat behind us exchanging banter with the crowed, they held there own though, Courtney Walsh demolished us.
GO KNOCK EM FOR SIX SRI LANKA!!
I’ve been hanging with Trinidadians this World Cup season too, and have heard plenty of chutney music and eaten my share of daal roti. Here’s a site with some chutney samples. I recommend “Caroni Close Down” and “Mor Tor” to get a feel for characteristic rhythym.
Meanwhile, South Africa is getting slapped. Go Sri Lanka!
Cheaper than at 8 Mile Creek. You can amortize the return subway fare pretty quickly.
Nice work, man. Liberty Ave is a fun place!
Lovely piece, Siddhartha. I wish I could be there to watch with y’all 🙁
I’ve been lurking here for years and SM has finally discovered Liberty…there is a God. Great story, Siddhartha, in my professional and unprofessional opinion alike. Come back soon.
Agree, really good bit of writing, it would be well good if every city had an area like that.
It does not surprise me that the common thread of sports lead you to discover this part of the diaspora. Sport is one of the few truly universal past times (alcohol, sex, and war being the only others I can think of).
Demerara Rum, I will, especially if some of your namesake is getting poured. This post and radio story address only a few of the thoughts my visits in the past few weeks have provoked, and I have some new directions I’m investigating. Drop me a line off-thread if you are so inclined, I’d love to chat.
First of all: nice colorful writing.
Second of all: wow, if that’s the kind of arduous research you do, I obviously went into the wrong profession 🙂
BTW: The last time I was in West Des Moines, I saw two newish desi shops that actually looked pretty nice. What? The diaspora isn’t all urban and isn’t all from the urban part of the desh either….I just flickr’d some fields in Haryana (looked, not uploaded). From one set of cornfields to another, that’s my diasporan distance traveled!
*Hey, any other rural mutineers, where are you? Say something 🙂
**West Des Moines isn’t rural, I know, but to the New Yorkers it might as well be….
Go Srilanka!
music, food?? When watching, playing sport, no other label that is cast on you is removed. I really want to go to this place now.
Fine writing, and nice audio story too, Siddhartha! Made me really feel like I was sitting in Singh’s pub with everyone, watching the matches. And, since much of your stuff ended on the cutting room floor, it strikes me that you might have the material to flesh this out (fluff it up ?) 🙂 into a New Yorker piece.
And you sound totally “NPR Brahmin” too – with the kind of voice and accent that Juan Williams has complained of not having. 🙂 I’m curious why you didn’t plug the Mutiny at least a little bit, though?
this post has me swooning …
liberty avenue – best place for some pine tarts; bamboo garden – some awesome guyanese food
Yes, and it’s too bad sex and war are turning into spectator sports too. If people had more sex, maybe there would be less war…hmmm…maybe.
Meanwhile Ozilla flattens another opponent. %&*$#!
My anthem is “Mr. Shankar” or “More Rum For Me.” http://www.toronto-lime.com/music/chutney/mr_sankhar.htm The Indo-Caribbean male is famous for his gallantry, ya see…not to mention sobriety.
I’ve lived most of my life in the West Indies and one of my abiding loves is its culture, history and daily performative art (see SUCK TEET:-). Even though my parents thought I was adding insult to injury when I signed up for a Caribbean Studies minor as well as an English degree, it was visa student fees well spent. Well spent, I tell you. For the first time, I wanted to write in the margins of books. Thus began my conversation.
Naturally I find the India/Indo-Caribbean/West Indian connection madly interesting and am always looking for influences and departures and whatnot. For instance, since the 1980s Caribbean DJs have been mixing Bollywood songs with dancehall and then I turn up at Basement Bhangra to hear DJ Rekha returning the favour. God save you, DJ Rekha. Or, regarding your point about double-diaspora, last summer Lincoln Centre Out-of-Doors had a “30 Years of Carnival” Day dedicated to Caribbean music which featured the Mighty Sparrow. It was quite surreal to hear “Marajhin” under the glitter of the NYC highrises. Then there’s Naipaul in India, but you get my drift.
Siddhartha, I will certainly be in touch. This summer I have some free time and I will be researching (both formally and not) a project tentatively entitled: The History Of Guyanese Rum or What Am I Doing On This Plantation?
Excellent colorful post, Siddhartha! Very interesting vignettes….
hehe… MD, if we could all write this well, we’d already have his job. But that doesn’t mean the rest of us can’t do the “arduous research” anyway 🙂
Beautiful post. Go Sri Lanka!
What a final to look forward to. Gilchrist and Jayasuriya, two lefties who invented top-order destruction, pitted against each other. The prospects of Murali’s magic demolishing an incredible middle-order — Ponting, Clarke, Symonds and Hussey — right after Malinga’s yorker takes care of Hayden.
And tons of historical grudge to spice things up.
Siddhartha —- wicked article my friend. Your mate is not wrong either, South London is the most Carribean part of England, but there’s something about your picture of this locality that reminds me of Brixton, just the way the roads and buildings by the road are arranged — the buildings look a little like English terraced housing, the tight bustle and vibe.
should be a great final, sri lanka are looking good. this post reminds me of joe strummer’s song “Bhindi Bhagee”. once again really nice post,
Ahh, so that’s what the famous Singh’s looks like! Our New York Indo-Caribbean friends who come down to South Florida swear by Singh’s. We, too, have some great Trinidadian and Guyanese roti shops here. A lazy Sunday afternoon, a couple of Caribs (actually, I prefer Guinness with my curry), two “doubles” and half a curry chicken Roti, wrapped of course. Some ole talk, a little cricket on the TV, a great lime!
I am an ABD married to a Trini Indian. After 34 years of blissful matrimony, I have become half Trini myself.
“I am an ABD”
Sorry, I’m an IBD. Getting too old for acronyms I guess.
I am one jealous Angeleno right about now. Great piece, Siddhartha.
Just wondering if we could get an update on the Sri Lankan political situation with a Sepia twist? From what I hear the political policies extend to the cricket team with unspoken rules about the percentages of the tamil miority allowed in the team. Any confirmation?
If that is the case – then Aussie, Aussie, Aussie, oi, oi, oi!
Meeee toooo!!! I hereby declare that I’m moving to NY after I graduate.
Now I am really jealous. I cannot remember when I graduated. Or where. Or worse, why?
I dropped out!
did you really drop out bro? or you just joshing.
Who knows, maybe his advisor was Samuel Huntington? 😛
I really did. Out of grad school at least. I did graduate college… I think… Though that was a long time ago. Do you hyper-achieving desis think less of me now?
fair play to you, do what you want to do, if you know what you want to do.
The guys love you for it, the girls tick you off their prospective list. It’s like dat. See thread below.
hollaaa i just moved to richmond hill in november. everything you could ever want is right there! it’s quite packed, but the people are good.
Ha! It’s just as well. Siddhartha gets more female readers swoony than any of the other male bloggers here, so that evens out the score a little bit, no?
That’s not true. Abhi gets all the… space cadets.
as of right now, it’s just Russel Arnold and Muralitharan. I don’t know of any unofficial quotas with regards to ethnicity but that’s really not the limiting factor of Tamils on the team. I would say the 24 years of fighting, extensive sri-lankan tamil diaspora, malnutrition, the many thousands of IDPs all contribute to reduce the viable pool of Tamil players by a great deal. Sport does not need normalcy to survive but it does need some sort of infrastructure in order to exist.
that infrastructure just doesn’t exist in most majority tamil places these days.
Murali had the fortune of growing up in Kandy, where people are used to living aside others of different ethnicities.
I thought Kandy was the heartland of Sinhala culture?
Richmond Hill also has a large Sikh community. I’m not sure to what extent they interact with the Indo-Caribbean community. I’ve heard there are frequent fights between teenagers belonging to the two groups, but just as likely I’m sure there are some good friendships as well.
How about de tassa? Tassa
That should be Tassa and more Tassa.
Lovely, Siddhartha. Was a joy to read and listen to.
What do I have to do to live in the paradise you just described??
Kandy is a good mix of Sinhalese, Muslims and Tamils. The only areas in Sri Lanka that are mono-ethnic are those run by the self-styled “sole representatives” of the Tamils – the LTTE. Having ethnically cleansed these areas of non-Tamils, only Tamils subservient to the LTTE can be found residing there. You will not find any Sinhalese, Moors, Malays or Burghers or other non-Tamil Sri Lankans. So it seems Tamils can live anywhere in Sri Lanka from Point Pedro to Dondra Head but the non-Tamils are barred from areas of their own country simply because they are not Tamil, and thus must be ethnically cleansed from the claimed “Tamil Homeland.” Yet it is interesting to see who keeps pulling out the victim card. Even Colombo, the capital city of Sri Lanka, is a majority Tamil-speaking city.
On a side note Murali is an “Indian Tamil” – part of the Indian Origin Tamils that live in Central Sri Lanka. He is not “Sri Lankan Tamil.”
You should post another thread regarding the elitism and stereotyping of indians with regard to indo-carribeans. That would enlighten quite a few. It’s been going on for years.
Do you hyper-achieving desis think less of me now?
The guys love you for it, the girls tick you off their prospective list. It’s like dat. See thread below.
I love you more for it, kid!
Um Raj? Have you read any non-biased literature on the situation in Sri Lanka? You think its only the singhalese that are being ethnically cleansed? Recently a family friend who visited Colombo was picked up by a white van and tortured simply because he was a tamil boy between the ages of 18-30, and thus suspected of being part of the LTTE. He was let go after bribing them with a considerable sum of money. I am told that tamil boys between this age group living in Colombo live in fear of this occuring and plenty leave home to walk down to the shops never to return again. Tamils may be living all over the country, but from what I have learned they are living in fear.
And the NE (or tamil only land) as you call it isn’t exactly paradise either. Food and medical supplies are being blocked to this area by the Singhalese government with many people denied their basic human rights. If the tamils are playing the victim card it is because they are the victims.