Last week’s first ever British Curry Awards ceremony took place in a typically desi fashion – over dinner, with the food served late. Curry is big business in the UK, with restaurants serving 2.5 million customers a week and grossing £3.2 billion a year. The British invaded India in the 19th century with gunpowder, now we have … transformed whole swathes of British society with curry powder
The event was similarly a big deal, with 1,200 people in attendance in the Ballroom of London’s swanky Grosvenor House Hotel. It was televised to 126 countries around the world and no less a personage than Tony Blair sent a message of support.
The industry refers to itself as “Curry” or “Spice” and not as “Indian food” because 95% of the restaurants are owned by Bangladeshis. In fact, the awards ceremony was organized by the “Guild of Bangladeshi Restaurateurs.”
In a swaggering speech, Sir Gulam Noon (a leader in the ready made meals industry) said:
“The British invaded India in the 19th century with gunpowder, now we have come back and a century later landed in the UK and transformed whole swathes of British society with curry powder. Without the success of the curry restaurant I could not have built my business to what it is today. I have ridden on the back of your achievements.” In a slight exaggeration, Noon urged his audience to celebrate the vibrancy of their business tonight but not to forget to open for business tomorrow evening on time otherwise, as he claimed, half the British population would be starving. [Link]
So, what do you serve over a thousand chefs and food entrepreneurs for dinner? Madhu’s of Southall “brought out a series of dishes many in the room have established as British culinary favourites:”
chicken tikka; masala fried tilapia flown in from Lake Victoria in Kenya, that other bastion of the British Empire; chicken tikka masala; rogan josh; delicious aloo ravia, small aubergines stewed with new potatoes; vegetable biriani and terrific tandoori naan bread. [Link]
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p>The awards for the night went to:
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p>
Best Restaurant in Central London and the City
Bombay Brasserie, Kensington SW7
Most Innovative Restaurant in London:
Tamarind, Mayfair, W1
Best Restaurant in Greater London & Suburbs
Curry Mahal, Harrow
Best Restaurant in the South of England
Malik’s, Cookham, Berkshire
British Curry Award Most Innovative Restaurant in the South
Aziz, Oxford
Best Restaurant in the Midlands
Rajnagar International, Solihull
Best Restaurant in the North
Aagrah, Shipley, West Yorkshire
Most Innovative Restaurant in the North
Vujon, Newcastle
Best Restaurant in Wales
Juboraj Rhiwbina, Cardiff
Best Restaurant in Scotland
Britannia Spice, Leith [Link]
And still no dish named after Sake Dean Mahomed!
The travesty!
Sigh. Drool.
Okay, now tell me where is the best Indian restaurant in New York, price be damned.
Surely he doesn’t really mean curry powder. It’s a euphemism, right? He means “spices,” right? Or maybe he means that, by promoting “curry powder” in home kitchens, people are driven to real SA restaurants where the chefs don’t touch the stuff, hence transforming British society.
I’ve never visited the UK, but I’m led to believe they have the world’s best SA food.
awesome…some of the best stuff is in the UK.. love going to leicester to bobby’s, or to sakoni in wembley for the mogo and the fast food chaat…
ahhh… fasting for navratri… so none of that for me… bring on the fruit and nuts 🙂
this is great. but for a full portrayal of the business, aren’t there some categories missing? such as
“best curryhouse to get beaten up by drunk football supporters after pubs shut on a day the home side lost?”
“blandest tikka masala pub lunch in the City”?
“least disgusting restaurant on the Manchester Curry Mile”?
Bong Breaker and co., we turn to you for wisdom!
I rather like Tamarind in NY (22nd/Bway+Park). Ain’t cheap, and it’s ‘fusion’ but it’s ohhhhh..so..delicious.
ChipShop in Brooklyn (around 5th and 5th) claims to be Brit/South Asian. You go through one door to eat Indian food, and another to munch on steak and kidney pies and malt vinegar your ‘chips.’ It’s kitschy, but I kinda like it. Peacock feathers in brass pots next to incredibly masculine portraits of the queen 😉
Both Sri Lankan restaurants in NY are now shuttered. The Indian-ish Lakruwana (dollops of yoghurt everywhere), and the amazingly good but hideously expensive Taprobane. Staten Island has a Sri Lankan community, but they’re not very friendly. I did get crab curry there from a small takeout place that was sooooo good (Real crabs! and $6 for a gigantic portion!) it’s actually worth taking the ferry out there. (Just make sure to stock up.)
Turbanhead:
True, but now there’s a post about him (I was about to put it up when you commented. Sheesh, so impatient!)
Nina:
Actually, he probably does. He sells Indian TV dinners, and has no problems with the curry label as a branding device.
Ennis:
That picture you linked to says “THAI red curry”! Thai curries taste nothing like Indian curries/masalas.
Cicatrix:
Eh, s’alright, not great. Guess I’ll be biting the bullet and heading off to Devi.
How careless. It’s a constantly changing picture, and I was trying to grab a desi one. How’s this instead. It’s not a curry, my point is simply that he sells TV dinners.
I like to think that the world’s best SA food can be found in SA.
These things are so fixed sometimes its unreal. In addition to the obvious that a good restaurant is about personal taste, I should also say there are a million such curry awards all year round in London and its the same people there everytime. I went a few times, and believe me, got bored of them because of the terrible food served at the party. And Mudhus is so oily it makes me sick sometimes.
NinaP- I thought Devi was overpriced and mediocre. Tamarind gets my vote too, though in general Indian food in NY is shockingly substandard.
Nina, I think a lot of the Indian food in NYC is over-priced, and a “fusion” description is just license to charge even more. On the more positive side, I have found the buffet lunches on some days at the regrettabley named “Dosa Hut” on 27th and Lex to be out of this world. Very home cooked ishtyle…
…and while I am on the food topic, I really wish people could think outside the curry box when discussing Indian food. For example, Maharashtra haa some amazing non-curry dishes, as I am sure other places in India do too.
Agreed.
I’m always wary when ‘fusion’ is used to describe anything..but Tamarind really is pretty tasty. If you want a good price, nothing beats that $6 crab curry in Staten island…
Pongal on 28th/Lex (I know!) has really good south indian.
or the maru-bhajias from slush, or sweety-sweets or handi’s (I heard they now have a UK branch).
Most people don’t know what I’m taling about and I miss home!
Hrmph!
Devi?? oh no, I think we need an intervention for Nina 😉
I’ll chime in on Tamarind– a bit pricey, but oh-so yum. Copper Chimney on 28th just west of Lex is new and owned by the same people as Pongal. Very very good, but a bit pricey (less than Tamarind, and not fusion) Vatan is good for Gujarati thali, Bukhara is good all-around but nothing spectacular. And somebody help me out– is it Saranavas or something like that– has rockin’ dosa. On the cheap, Sukhadia’s on 45th has decent chaat and sabjis, plus they have a decent selection for our Jain friends…
No fusion, but I thought the new place Sarvanaas on Lex & (26th or 27th) was very good indeed…
I like Devi, but I went there when it first opened, so I don’t know if it has changed or not since. I’ve never tried Tamarind, but after all these receommendations, I think I’ll make reservations for the weekend.
DesiDancer, Saravanas on Lex and 26th has rockin’ uthappam, too. My South Indian husband, who is damn fussy about his dosa, really likes their food. Dosa Hut near the temple in Flushing is great too.
I agree with oh-so yum part but cannot agree with a bit pricey. Only way to put it, it is prohibitively expensive. I spent a fortune once! You either can own a house or eat in Tamarind once a week. I chose the house.
Yes, I agree. If I hadn’t been treated, I don’t think I could’ve afforded more than a piece of naan. Even the tea’s expensive. But, for once, the voice in my head that pipes up every time I eat at a South Asian restaurant (the one that disparages the food and the prices cuz “ammi can make it better. for free!”) actually shut up.
Talking of expensive and fusion, any opinions on tabla?
I didn’t like Tabla’s food very much…the coctails on the other hand, were good to try…
Anyone eaten at Babu’s? What kind of food do they have?
I guess Tamarind needs to be tried out ASAP.
I liked Amma. Bukhara Grill is fine, nothing to go crazy for. Daawat is kind of more suited to non Indian palettes.I like the delicate flavors of some dishes there. I guess Madhur jaffrey’s name does the trick. Utsav’s prix-fixe before theatre is a good(well priced) option if rushing off to see a show and food is not top of mind. Tabla, have heard, (no personal experience as I dont care for fusion Indian that much) is fine. There is this to-die-for Kashmiri place in northern NJ called Wazwan. Authentic Kashmiri food. A true treat. It got rated in top 10 NJ restaurants(all cuisines) last year.Well deserved
Id love to hear food places for Kerala dishes as well as Karaikudi kind of cooking.
But best Indian food, sorry, still in India. Apart from that, at home.
I agree. i think the food is less than average. Being a beer-only guy, can’t speak about the coctails..
at the regrettabley named “Dosa Hut” …should have been “regrettably”, hate these typos. My opinion of “Babu” was mixed, in that the appetizers were great but the entree pretty ho-hum. Same with “Tabla”, though I agree with Umair that the cocktails can be nice there. There is a hole-in-the wall Punjabi Deli on Houston near 1st Ave. that has pretty good and super cheap veggie food cooked fresh daily.
Mmmm. I looove Bread Bar; I believe it to be quite superior to Tabla.
For a hole in the wall – try Haandi on 28th and Lex.; great pulao and seekh kababs.
I HATE Sukhadia’s; what a terrible experience with sub-par food.
I am quite fond of Bukhara Grill. As some said, nothing spectacular, but consistently good. I love their spinach with corn.
I also secretly frequent the Indian bar at Whole Foods; it’s surprisingly decent.
The Shaan, Jewel of India, Bombay Palace franchise.. just eh.
Up until recently used to enjoy snacking at Kati Roll, but they’ve gone downhill as of late. Roomal (on 26th and Lex) is a suitable substitute, albeit less fried.
I went to Tabla with a group of people and liked it. I didn’t think there was much fusion going on at all. It really seemed like an expensive American restaurant with just a couple Indian elements thrown in. Anyways, overly priced but a good experience.
Ah, the legendary Haandi! They now have two location in London it seems:
http://www.haandi-restaurants.com/index.htm
(PS: mogo=cassava. Typically eaten boiled and roasted, or fried. Garnished with pili-pili=chili and ndimu=lemon)
Cafe Spice runs the Indian bar at Whole Foods. Pukka.
The new(ish) Indus Valley on 100th and Broadway serves a kick-ass vindalou de poulet, in addition to a number of excellent dishes…
Baluchi’s, the Sri-Lankan(?) place on Columbus is injuriously delicious. Too bad about the reliably wretched service.
Baluchi’s? The chain Indian place? If it’s the same place I’m thinking of, there’s nothing Sri Lankan about it whatsoever. At all. Anywhere on the menu. Just so you know 😉
YEAH! mr.cicatrix and I lurve this place!
But, for as much as NY has Indian restaurants up the yang, “fusion” seems to limit itself to cocktails, appetizers and the ubiquitous rack of lamb in just a handful of restaurants. It seems odd that there isn’t more and better experimenting… To that end, there was a lady who used to sell biriyani, Trinidadian style, with sides of jerk and peppercorn chutney, from a cart near Bryant Park and I’ve yet to meet someone in the States that can beat that… Legal Seafoods has a whole Chettinad menu, but they don’t count as fusion and speaking of things that don’t count, the French-Indian Restaurant Raji, in Memphis, has a pretty interesting menu that includes Chai Creme Brulee.
For those of you planning to visit the UK sometime, the following restaurants are very good:
“Lahore Karahi” on Southall Broadway. Superb Punjabi/Mughlai cuisine, not excessively spicey, and in a superb decor (even the waiters use those electronic “tablets” to take your order, rather than the usual dog-eared paper notepads). Also plenty of other restaurants on the same street, especially for those who like spicier food.
“Sayonara” in Leicester. Very good Gujarati-orientated food — the kind of stuff that people eat at home, although obviously “styled up” a bit — plus other North Indian fare such as excellent aloo paratha etc.
“Chawalla” on Green Street, East London. (near Ilford).
Ah..how many times have I heard this sentence?
The answer, is none.
Anyway – I am probably not the best person to talk about food with. I eat a lot, but my taste buds have been burnt away over the years, hence the rep I’ve developed on here for eating anything. It also means I haven’t got a discerning palate. But I CAN help you out if you want to impress your date (and you happen to be in London). There are some wonderful restaurants here – I honestly think for a foodie, London is the best place in the world.
In terms of Indian/SA fare – Jai mentioned Green Street and Southall – two very Asian areas, where what you get is authentic and tasty. My version is Tooting; topnotch Sri Lankan, South Indian and Pakistani/N. Indian cuisine. Most famous is Mirch Masala – opened by Imran Khan himself. No visit to London is complete without a trip to BRICK LANE, another place I spend a lot of time. However all of these places spend so much time on the taste, they neglect the wow-factor.
Up-market Indian restaurants are big business. And big bucks for the customer. But if you’re like me, you’re a superficial poser who likes to go to swanky restaurants (and spend the next month paying your bank back). Rather than describe them, here are some I have visited. The food has been superb at all.
Bombay Brasserie – gorgeous colonial surroundings, complete with paintings of Hindoos and Mohammedans.
Benares – My favourite Indian I think. No girl can resist a guy who takes her here. Beautiful.
Veeraswamy – Oldest Indian restaurant in Britain (that is still running). So-so.
Cinnamon Club – Odd, no Indian staff as the owner (who is Asian himself) slated the industry in Curry Magazine, so no Asians want to work for him.
Café Naz – Brick Lane’s most well-known trendy restaurant. Eat fusion cooking under a giant screen showing Madhuri and Shah Rukh cavorting.
Vama – popular with visiting Indian celebs. Have seen loads of faces there, from playback singers, to actors and cricketers.
Chutney Mary – The couple who own this have an interesting story.
Tamarind – Won loads of awards but I wasn’t that bowled over.
London has so much to offer, the girlfriend and I have worked our way through many, Russian, Japanese, Vietnamese, Mexican, Nepalese, Mongolian, Colombian and much more. But my fave food and my fave London restaurant is Thai.
Wow, I wrote loads. I like food.
Not exactly “fine dining”, but if you are ready to rough it, I think Naan & Curry on the edge of Chinatown will give you a very satisfying meal for $10. The best Ive had Stateside . But what do I know? Im only a fob. But hell, compared to the bland, overpriced, tasteless, characterless stuff that goes for Indian food in Minnesota and Wisconsin, N&C was amazing.
Reminds me that restaurant named Brick Lane opened in NY a few years ago. On the infamous 6th street ‘curry row’ no less. It was shockingly reeeeally good at first, but my last two visits were massively disappointing. It’s gone downhill. FAST. Anyone checked it out? Same experience?
Hey Guys i found this place in New York City… UMMMMM what classic Indian food. It was awesome!!! Go try it out Bombay grill on Lexington Ave. between 39/40 sts. Great guys and very friendly. Damn..wish my mother learned indian cuisine.
16 · kenyandesi said
You are probably missing the food from Haandi or the mithai’s from Sweety Sweets
You are not missing much when you talk about the blajias from slush. Quality has deteriorated. It is not uncommon to find rotten potatoes in your plate! Have also been served with smelly tomato chutney. When we complained, we were told there must have been a bad potato in the batch and the owner was laughing. No apology whatsoever. I hear the Health authorities have visited them on several occasions …
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