{"id":3886,"date":"2006-10-19T14:52:53","date_gmt":"2006-10-19T19:52:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com?p=3886"},"modified":"2006-10-20T12:55:18","modified_gmt":"2006-10-20T17:55:18","slug":"chris_omprakash","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/2006\/10\/19\/chris_omprakash\/","title":{"rendered":"Chris Omprakash Sharma, America&#8217;s top climber"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><center><a href=\"http:\/\/outside.away.com\/outside\/features\/200506\/chris-sharma.html\"><img class=picture height=153 hspace=0 src=\"http:\/\/www.sepiamutiny.com\/sepia\/images\/chris-sharma[1]_new.jpg\" width=300 border=0><\/a><\/center><\/p>\n\n<p>Chris Sharma is the best rock climber in America, and probably the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.rockclimbing.com\/topic\/6958\">best sport climber in the world<\/a>: <\/p>\n\n<blockquote>When he completed his long-time project Realization in Ceuse, France in 2001, the route was arguably the hardest in the world&#8230; \n<p><font style=\"background-color: #ffd2bd\">Sharma [has] won the World Cup of Climbing<\/font>, [but] it was later recalled after he tested positive for THC, although THC is not a performance enhancing drug. He returned the cup. [<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Chris_Sharma\">Link<\/a>]<\/blockquote>\n\n<p>&lt;<\/p>\n\n<p>p>Sharma has continuously pushed the limits of the sport, climbing routes more difficult than virtually anybody else:<\/p>\n\n<blockquote>Chris Sharma, the 24-year-old monkey boy who in 2001<font style=\"background-color: #ffd2bd\"> introduced the world to 5.15 climbing (the sport&#8217;s hardest grade)<\/font>, recently cobbled together a new boulder problem, across the roof of an Ozarks cave, that some say is one of the hardest lines ever completed. [<a href=\"http:\/\/outside.away.com\/outside\/features\/200506\/chris-sharma.html\">Link<\/a>]<\/blockquote>\n\n<p>&lt;<\/p>\n\n<p>p>I got really excited when I first heard his name. This guy who climbs like a mountain macaca &#8230; could his name really be Krishna Omprakash Sharma? I mean, that pot thing is so <a href=\"http:\/\/us.imdb.com\/title\/tt0366551\/\">Harold &amp; Kumar<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n<p>&lt;<\/p>\n\n<p>p>Nope. Despite his desi middle and last names, he&#8217;s neither [racially] desi nor hadesi, he&#8217;s actually a hidesi [desi with either Hippie or Hindu convert parents]. <font style=\"background-color: #ffd2bd\">His parents are disciples of <\/font><a href=\"http:\/\/www.mountmadonna.org\/yoga\/babaji.html\"><font style=\"background-color: #ffd2bd\">Baba Hari Dass<\/font><\/a>, &#8220;who has not spoken since 1952 and communicates by writing on a small chalkboard.&#8221; \n<!--more--><\/p>\n\n<blockquote>Chris was born at home to Gita Jahn, a local masseuse and healing artist, and Bob Sharma, a maintenance supervisor at UCSC. His parents were married at Mt. Madonna Center. Babagi [Should be Baba &#8211; Ennis] Hari Dass, the spiritual leader and founder of the center, <font style=\"background-color: #ffd2bd\">gave them their last name of Sharma. He also gave Chris his middle name, Omprakash<\/font>&#8230;&#8221; [<a href=\"http:\/\/www.metroactive.com\/papers\/cruz\/09.27.00\/sharma-0039.html\">Link<\/a>]<\/blockquote>\n\n<p>He also seems to be a chela himself, since he <a href=\"http:\/\/students.washington.edu\/ccharles\/squamish\/squamish.html\">named a climbing route after his Guru<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n<p>&lt;<\/p>\n\n<p>p><\/p>\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n<p>&lt;<\/p>\n\n<p>p>Sharma attributes his prodigious success to the mental poise gained by meditation:<\/p>\n\n<blockquote>In 2001, Sharma nailed the hardest climb on earth, Realization, a 5.15a overhang in France that had stymied him 30 times before he succeeded. Surprisingly, he describes the climb as a mental, not physical, challenge. Says Sharma, &#8220;To see the whole thing, I had to be in the moment.&#8221;<br \/><br \/>Sharma credits his heightened mental awareness to his daily meditation practice. &#8220;Meditation&#8217;s important for balance,&#8221; he says. &#8220;You need to rely on yourself to quiet the mind. I know having more of a mental calm has helped me when I try something that&#8217;s very difficult. It makes you realize that you&#8217;re not always going to be at your best, because when you meditate, you&#8217;re paying close attention to your body and how it feels. As a result, you&#8217;re at ease when things don&#8217;t work out. You learn to appreciate the lows, just let them happen, learn from them, and go back and try again&#8230;&#8221; [<a href=\"http:\/\/outside.away.com\/outside\/bodywork\/200401\/200401_balance_7.html\">Link<\/a>]<\/blockquote>\n\n<p>&lt;<\/p>\n\n<p>p>Here&#8217;s an extended clip of him showing how he created &#8220;Realization&#8221;, the climb referred to above as &#8220;the hardest climb on earth&#8221;:<\/p>\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n<p><center><embed id=VideoPlayback style=\"width: 400px; height: 326px\" src=http:\/\/video.google.com\/googleplayer.swf?docId=-200477265572892748&#038;hl=en type=application\/x-shockwave-flash> <\/embed><\/center><\/p>\n\n<p>And a shorter one of him strutting his stuff at a contest. He&#8217;s got moves that would put <a href=\"http:\/\/www.sepiamutiny.com\/sepia\/archives\/000180.html\">spider man<\/a>, desi or not, to shame: <\/p>\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n<div align=center><embed id=VideoPlayback style=\"width: 400px; height: 326px\" src=http:\/\/video.google.com\/googleplayer.swf?docId=-312148247087610556&#038;hl=en type=application\/x-shockwave-flash><\/div>\n\n<p><\/embed><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Chris Sharma is the best rock climber in America, and probably the best sport climber in the world: When he completed his long-time project Realization in Ceuse, France in 2001, the route was arguably the hardest in the world&#8230; Sharma &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/2006\/10\/19\/chris_omprakash\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[21,11],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3886"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3886"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3886\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3886"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3886"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sepiamutiny.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3886"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}