Just add curry

Lately I’ve come across a number of recipes where desi “fusionification” occurs by just adding garam masala. Is this the culinary equivalent of a “princess costume” for Halloween?

For example, one of the regional finalists in the Build a Better Burger competition was Daljeet Singh from Coral Springs, FL. His entry was “Masala Burgers with Tangy Tamarind Sauce and Red Onion-Mint Relish” [Link]. You saw that one coming, didn’t you?

Unfortunately, he lost not because his burgers were too hot, but because his buns were too cold (who ever heard of a Punjabi with cold buns?).

The NYT coverage of the event makes it seem like Singh had some sort of unfair secret weapon, writing that the “overpoweringly spicy scent now wafting across the lawn from the Masala Burgers” [Link] did not distract the eventual winner. (?!?!)

Similarly, there are a number of versions of (ahem) Punjabi haggis out there, all of which involve garam masala. I love how this one group markets their version as healthier than either traditional haggis or traditional punjabi food:

By using an exotic blend of fresh tomatoes, green chilli and garam masala, the women of an Edinburgh community group believe their dish will appeal to Scots looking for a healthy alternative this Burns Night… They hit upon the idea of curried haggis while trying to come up with ways of making the traditionally high-fat Sikh diet healthier. [Link]

Both the women who invented the Punjabi haggis believe they have lost more than two stone since switching to a healthier diet less than a year ago. [Link]

For those of you who aren’t familiar with haggis:

Haggis is a blood pudding, stuffed with minced sheep’s organs, onions, oatmeal and suet (beef fat), then sewn in a sheep’s stomach and boiled or baked. The blood from the meat soaks into the oatmeal, mixes with the beef fat and turns the inside a dark brown, richly grainy colour. [Link]

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p>Lamb offal is healthier than dal/roti/sabzi? Riiiiiight ….

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p>Amusingly, masala haggis didn’t emerge fully born from somebody’s brain. Instead, it was the product of evolution:

“We have tried haggis pakora and haggis curry at parties and so to make a haggis using traditional masala ingredients was the next step. People who like curry will like this…” [Link]

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p>There’s also a desi vegetarian haggis for those of you who are feeling left out.

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p>Why this simple fusionification? Isn’t there more to desi spices than garam masala? I’m Punjabi and it’s not even my basic masala (I follow family tradition and use dry cumin and coriander seeds, sauteed with ginger as the base for most sabzis I cook).

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p>Here’s one chef who at least tries to desify things in a few different ways:

“I love Indian omelette. You whisk up a couple of eggs, throw in some chilli powder, some fresh green chillies and turmeric, then top with garam masala. Indian cheese toast is great. You put some cheese on the toast along with fresh green chillies, tomatoes and red chilli and maybe some nice red onion.

“Everything I have is ‘Indianfied’,” he explains. “If you cook bolognaise, go for keema mattar instead, which is Indian curry style mince and peas, and serve with your pasta. And you can’t beat a chicken tikka pizza…” [Link]

Salmon Rushdie or pan-fried masala salmon anybody?

98 thoughts on “Just add curry

  1. BTW, hing (asfoetida) is used even in Southern Indian, Maharashtrian and Kashmiri cuisines.

    Oh I know, I’m just saying it’s a crucial ingredient in Rajasthani dishes because of the nature of desert cuisine. Like cumin and coriander pretty much goes for every South Asian cuisine – Lankan, Nepali, whatever 🙂 btw, what the hell kind of weird name is asfoetida. I should just say heeng even when I’m using English names.

    As for this:

    Tibetans of course are more commonplace, and many do speak Hindi too (those who were born in India which is now probably a majority of their community).

    I’ve loved all the Tibetans I’ve met in India and here. Maybe it’s because I’ve met them through SFT and ICT, and they were politically aware people who were very grateful for Indian refuge (though still bitterly critical of Nehru’s response to the Chinese occupation). They’ve been far more approchable and friendly to me than ABDs. When I first meet Tibetans here, they ask me if I can speak Hindi, and when I tell them I can, they’ll talk to me in Hindi for a bit. Where I’m from, where they’re from, how we both got here, what kind of food do I like, have I ever tried Nepali-Tibetan food, etc etc. It’s really nice – you know right away they’re not assuming anything, just looking to connect with another human being through a common experience. It’s something I wish ABDs would understand so they wouldn’t get so indignant when you ask questions – none of that ABD “just because I’m desi doesn’t mean I give a shit, so step off, bitch” kinda drama.

  2. to #1 “Has anyone here successfully got non-desi friends to stop using that abomination called “curry powder” in their cooking”

    —yes! I try to educate all the non-Desis that curry powder is not something Indians use in cooking! I try encourage them to use a mixture of the garam masala and haldi and other ingredients

  3. Curry powder is a hissing and a byword. No curry powder is used in this non-desi house. My mortar and pestle were brought from Colombia eons ago and were used this very day.

  4. Just a latino aside: asofoetida is commonly used in santeria spells. Don’t ask me how I know this.

  5. My mortar and pestle were brought from Colombia eons ago and were used this very day

    the hindi for pestle is lund… really.

    ask for it by name at desi grocery stores.

  6. it’s so weird that i saw this here, i just went to california pizza kitchen and had their new mango tandoori chicken pizza, and it wasn’t bad! they had a good fusion of flavors (at least to me) and it was a good pizza. just my two cents..

  7. Post #1 mentioned Amul cheese. Now that is a cheese to beat. It is one cheese that just won’t melt. It will brown, it will burn, but it refuses to succumb to the searing heat of an oven and start oozing all over. And I “low” it, as I do all the Indian versions of western things – Indian bacon, Indian hamburger (which can only be described as a concoction), Indian ham, Indian chicken patties (the closes thing to those are the Spanish empanadas we get in South Florida), and of course Indian beer and Indian whiskey.

    Your favorite foods and your fondest memories – same thing.

    Speaking of the word curry as an oversimplification, there is a brand called Turban Curry Powder that is called for in all Caribbean curries. Caribbean curries are definitely an acquired taste for the East Indian taste buds. It is a little less complex, more reminiscent of Indian village cooking, which makes sense considering the Indian heritage in the West Indies. I like it because I have been married to a Trini Indian for 34 years. Since she has been married to an East Indian for 34 years, she tends to Indianize Caribbean curries with too many Moghul touches.

    Looking forward to being in the land of Turban curry powder this weekend.

  8. sorry, popping by to represent the dirty south. a little known fact is that indo-fusion cuisine has been around in the south for a long time — everything from curried mashed sweet potatoes to “spicy fried mushrooms” (convenient euphemism for gobi manchurian).

    if any of you are in RTP, check out lunch at pao lim asian bistro in durham. $5.99 specials and the owner is asian-american himself — born in hakka province, raised in kolkata, and spent his professional career in nyc and nc.

    the ‘punjabis with cold buns’ had me rolling.

  9. Could you guys please do a post on Paghris. Anyone who has been to a mela [rural festival] in Punjab, will tell you , how marvelous, the Sikh men look, displaying their turbans, in all their multicolored glory.

    Anyone else think, that papaji’s/Uncle’s paghri/turban looks like a aircraft carrier’s landing area, in the picture above.

  10. Check out Naughty Curry, goris with some serious brown!

    for some reason, my net filter doesnt let me kick through. i snuck a peek at the pics through google cache and it looked like a bunch of rec*pes. any juicy tarts you’d like to share here old bud.

  11. Post #1 mentioned Amul cheese. Now that is a cheese to beat.

    correct me if i’m wrong – but isnt it like ‘la vache qui rit’ processed stuff – not quite the real thing – i take the kiris camping and that stuff doesnt spoil for ages. dont get me wrong – i liked amul cheese – it is quite satisfying opening the can of and seeing the soft ringed surface peek out delicately from under the torn metal – i felt like such an adult doing that.

  12. Even “south-indian” restaurants can’t resist the mass-appeal staples like tandoori and nan.

    Hey SkepMod, ever been to Madras Pavilion? It’s the best south-indian restaurant Dallas has. Doesn’t beat my friend’s mother’s palappam tho … omg 🙂

    Also for those of you in the beautiful Pacific Northwest, Seattle has a great pizza joint called Can-Am pizza that specializes in BUTTER CHICKEN PIZZA. It is almost enough to make me move.

  13. bit of a threadjack, but:

    does anyone know where/if I can get tiffin lunches in Midtown Manhattan (Eighth Ave.)? I know that other cities in the US have tiffin delivery, but I’ve had a hard time finding anyone doing so in New York. Really, what I’m looking for is some “sadha” (plain/simple) desi food, as opposed to the heavy Americanized stuff that most Indian restaurants serve.

    thanks.

  14. Shruti (#51):

    Don’t you think Tibet is a lost cause? The Chinese infiltration, penetration, and domination is just too far along now…they’ve (possibly)become the majority of the population, and control everything. The indigenous Tibetan culture, religion, and language are all in peril, and maybe in states of irreparable deterioration (although the Chinese Gov’t denies this). The Tibetan people are completely demoralized. Sad but unfortunately, reality.

  15. Don’t you think Tibet is a lost cause?

    yes. anyone who puts salty butter in his tea is a little cuckoo to me. ‘it very thusly’ is a lost clause.

  16. Don’t you think Tibet is a lost cause?

    Yes, and No.

    First, the yes part. I do not think in near future (or ever) Tibet is breaking free from China. China has fully integrated Tibet into their country, and put Tibet on the fast development phase. The sad part is that they are also destroying the culture in Tibet.

    No part, now. I think by keeping the awareness, culture and political activism alive in peaceful manner, they try Chinese not get away with anything (OK, they do get away with murder). Perhaps, in this way their hopes and dreams stay alive, and bargaining chip for some autonomy in 20-30 years from now.

    I also think Tibetans in India should move to main stream which they tend to resist to improve their schools so that Tibetans can become engineers and doctors in Indian Universities. I did once knew Tibetan monks as PhD students in computer science @ Cornell. However, in general, they do seldom move to the middle of society in India. They have been in India for about 50 years now. I think there is a lot of discussion going among Tibetans in India to avail opportunities even if it means diluting their way of life.

    Do check this powerful and heart-rendering movie, Cry of the Snow Lion.

  17. tsering shakya’s ‘dragon in the land of snows’ is also informative (though full of typos). if interested i can be cajoled into submitting a review.

  18. Every now and then, I don’t mind a slice of Indian Pizza from Zante’s. But if anyone can tell me where I can get decent Gobi Manchurian in SF, I would be quite happy. drool

  19. Bhutan is pretty much the Tibetan culture’s last stand. Or maybe I am wrong with equating Tibetan culture with Vajrayana Buddhism.. My young (i.e. <18 year old)cousins in Karnataka have Indo-Tibetan friends who seem to view themselves as Indian entirely and don’t seem to have any thoughts wrto a “return”.

  20. Amitabh,

    Read this, I do not think Tibetans have lost heart.

    Tsundue joined Friends of Tibet (India) in 1999. Since then he’s been working with the organisation as its general secretary. In January 2002 his profile peaked when he scaled scaffolding to the 14th floor of the Oberoi Towers in Mumbai to unfurl a Tibetan national flag and a banner which read “Free Tibet” down the hotel’s facade. China’s Premier Zhu Rongji was inside the hotel addressing a conference of Indian business tycoons. The world’s media featured Tsundue’s antics and Indian police officials reportedly congratulated him in prison for standing up for his rights. Recently, in April, he repeated a similar feat with a stunning protest that captured the imagination of the world. Single-handedly, he snatched the world media attention from the visiting Chinese Prime Minister Wen Jia Bao in the south Indian city, Bangalore. (from [www.friendsoftibet.org])
  21. is there any indian-chinese food in the LA area? i’ve only lived here for a year and have not found any (much to my sadness)…anyone know of any places?

  22. Hairy_d – Amul cheese is NOT the La Vache Qui Rit processed pap, though they may well make their little triangle processed stuff these days – you have to get Amul cheese in a tin and try it grilled!! Fabulous. I was so psyched to finally find a cheddar at Zabar’s that tasted like Amul, though I can’t for the life of me remember what it was now. I’ve always preferred Amul to the Kraft cheese that everyone so loved in desiland when I was growing up (probably because it was “imported” and you were showing your “refined” taste in bringing it out – I swear I still have family members who proudly bring it out with wine….)

    There are lots of Chinese families (Chinese, not Tibetan) in Shimla still, and their shoe shops are still around. My mom had Chinese friends in college from there. The shoes are charmingly 1960s…and they make them to measure, and have you trace out your foot on a piece of paper.

  23. Shruti (#51): Don’t you think Tibet is a lost cause?

    My response is basically what Kush said. I’m actually not a part of SFT or ICT. I just know a lot of Tibetans and have been to a few demonstrations because my friend (who is now the “Global Grassroots Campaign” coordinator) was highly involved in SFT and taught me a lot when we were living together. I’d like to add that once you meet the Tibetians, hear their stories and see their resolve for freedom, you simply cannot just dismiss their struggle as a “lost cause”. China may have a stranglehold on Tibet, but everywhere outside of China and Tibet the campaign has gained a lot of popularity, and they’re really going to go for it come the 2008 Olympics in China. It’s gonna be an all out media war.

    As for their integration into mainstream Indian culture, the reason why they don’t assimilate is because they consider themselves refugees, and they hope to return to Tibet someday. They know it may not happen in their lifetime – or ever – but they’re extremely wary about “cultural genocide”, which is probably their biggest beef with the Chinese occupation. They’re ok with being “outsiders” who don’t/can’t assimilate because it makes them feel like they’re preserving their culture and keeping the hope alive. Maybe they should be like Cubans in Miami …on second thought, no. That’s f*cking annoying.

    yes. anyone who puts salty butter in his tea is a little cuckoo to me. ‘it very thusly’ is a lost clause.

    Hey, it’s salty yak butter, ok?

    It’s actually pretty good when you’re somewhere up in the Himalayas and it’s cold enough to make your tits break off. That stuff will put hair on yer teeth, mayne. Try it! Try it!

  24. Hmm…I wonder if Indian-born and raised Tibetans, 3 to 4 generations away from Tibet (I’m talking future scenario) would relish the thought of moving back to Tibet one day (if that option ever becomes available). It’s damn cold there. It’s probably more fun hanging around in Mcleodganj (Himachal Pradesh) and having flings with white “Buddhist wanna-be” women.

  25. I have lived in Delhi Uni area when i was young. I saw a lot of people who looked chinese and spoke perfect hindi but they were actually manipuri.

  26. That stuff will put hair on yer teeth, mayne.

    main hoon daan-th!! main hoon main hoon daan-th…

    -just fresh in my head. they were playing the new don song !! at my gym the other day. i think weve arrived when leotard clad chicas are boxercising to bollywood-

    btw – shru’ – this is vere i live – drop in if you’re in the neighborhood and we’ll have some momos and tea.

  27. Totally unrelated..but may have been triggered by all the “Chinese speaking Hindi” posts. There is a French restaurant in Goa (near Bagha beach) owned by a white French guy who met an Indian girl in France got married to her and moved to India. Now get this. He didn’t speak any English before he met her. So when he learnt English, it was Indian English complete with accent and everything. Hilarious and mildly unsettling. I wasn’t sure if he was making fun of my accent or not. I also met a white dude (perhaps American) in Mumbai who had grown up in India (gotta love those NGO kids) that had a regular Indian accent. Again a little unsettling yet amusing.

  28. There are lots of Chinese families (Chinese, not Tibetan) in Shimla still, and their shoe shops are still around. My mom had Chinese friends in college from there. The shoes are charmingly 1960s…and they make them to measure, and have you trace out your foot on a piece of paper.

    SP – Ta Tung, Hopsons and… what’s the name of the third Chinese shoe store on The Mall? I think it’s now shuttered.

  29. Kush (# 73),

    The Tibetans should also borrow a page from the Palestinians and Kashmiri Muslims; start killing Chinese civilians – children, women and men. Only then, maybe, will the we give a damn.

  30. You had me at “most sabzis I cook”.

    And the only thing worse than curry powder is the British “Chicken Tikka Masala” that has red food colouring as its main ingredient. I once got asked if I could make it and answered by laughing and saying that it wasn’t even an Indian dish! They think it’s real Indian food and its so common that you can even get it at pubs! They serve it on their “curry night” where it’ll be the dish of the day. Ugh.

    Oh and another pet peeve while we’re talking food: butter chicken made with coconut milk. It’s WRONG people, don’t do it! And no raisins or anything else sweet either! Make it right. I once went into a Bangladeshi-Indian store and got all the spices for butter chicken only to be asked at the check-out: “oh, and do you have the coconut milk?” I nearly had a heart attack and my (white) friend said afterwards that I looked absolutely horrified. I was.

  31. You had me at “most sabzis I cook”.

    Is that something I should include in a personal ad?

    Single Sardar Serves Sabzi, Salivate!

    If so, which sabzi should I showcase? My Baingan Bhartha? Gobi Aloo? My dal making skills? Should I hide the fact that I don’t make my own yogurt, and that while I can make rotis at langar, I usually don’t bother at home (making atta for one is a pain).

    Or will all of this make me seem like a girly man, despite being 6’+ tall ?

  32. Macaca #2 – I don’t remember the names of the shops! I just remember the one near the coffee house on the Mall because that’s the one whose maaliks are friends of my mom and aunt…But I do remember the name and location of each and every pastry shop on the Mall, yessirreee.

  33. Ennis,

    Or will all of this make me seem like a girly man, despite being 6’+ tall ?

    Stop worrying, mang. The laydeez love a man who can cook.

  34. Ennis – the ladies DO love a man who can cook. It’s one of the shortest ways to our hearts, believe me – it’s that sensitive, nurturing thang. Cook us dinner for the third date, and we’re hooked.

    Hell, if you can make rotis, I may just have to dump my man for you…

  35. At risk of you guys pelting me with your chapals, I’m going to say something that will probably ostracize me in this community forever: I’ve never liked Chinese food. Ever. Growing up in a heavily Asian part of the US, Chinese takeout was a common choice of dinner suggestions with my friends and family and I was constantly a source of irritation to them for being the only obstinate holdout, always vocally petitioning for Italian or Mexican; anything but the dreaded Chinese food. Beef and broccoli was the only meal I’d eat after invariably being overruled and drug to a house of hunan- I was lucky if I was able to finish it. That said, the absolute best, most delicious and memorable Chinese food I’ve had the fortune to ingest was in India, at the Taj Hotel in Bombay. How could this be? The only explanation had to be that the Chinese food I was subjected to in the States was a poor reproduction of the primo stuff came from where it all began, the homeland. I asked the waiter if the establishment had imported any culinary authority from mainland China; surely a could create such comestible cuisine. He simply shook his head and proudly stated that all the chefs were homegrown Indians using recipes they had created without any Indo-Chinese fusion. I sat back stunned in my chair: was it true? Was China subverting the call center strategy and outsourcing its cuisine to be prepared by high paid Indian cooks? What did this all mean? What was that funny feeling in my groin I got when I looked over at the young women sitting a few tables away from me? These questions would have to wait, another hot plate of eggrolls had arrived and I had called dibs.

    Apropos of nothing, any South Bay macacas remember Mr. Chau’s and it’s brilliant radio jingle? “Don’t call me string-bean!” Pure f’ing genius.

  36. “That said, the absolute best, most delicious and memorable Chinese food I’ve had the fortune to ingest was in India, at the Taj Hotel in Bombay.”

    Interestingly, Chow Mein has become an Indian street food just like chaat, bhelpuri or samosas. I have seen auto rickshaw pullers in Delhi stop at the Chow Mein vendors for lunch. The low-end version is not all that great, unless you spike it with a lot of chili sauce, but restaurant quality Indian Chinese is definitely very good and different from Chinese in the US. Neither is that faithful to the original found in China, though. Goes to show – cuisine is dynamic like language. For example, Ketchup is used in some Chinese dishes in the Caribbean.

  37. I love the desi chinese chow mein. It was an adjustment to the chinese found in the US for me. The desified chinese is spicy, tangy, and saucey. And it lacks the general sharp ‘chinese-food’ smell that emnates in chinese joints here… And stuff that passes for chinese at street vendors in India is even far removed from regular chinese – its all SUPER spicy – like bhel, and the only thing resembling chinese food is the noodles and cut veggies…

    Floridian, I thought the street fare on chinese was pretty good, but I ate that in Mumbai…

  38. …the old GGM cooking show skits where the Indian cook dumped garam masala on top of everything as her contribution to the fusion…

  39. Anyone ever try coronation chicken? I know it looks gross but Pret a Manger (a UK chain, now open in Manhattan!) has a great sandwich made w/ this stuff on whole grain bread w/ toasted almonds, mixed greens, tomatoes and mango chutney. I order my sandwich w/ their moroccan lentil soup, which is sorta dal-like. Yum!