I can’t begin a food post without sharing an experience from a few nights ago. A group of us had dinner at Indus Valley, a reasonably well-regarded desi restaurant at 100th and Broadway in New York. At some point the composer Philip Glass walked in, and one of our group, a big fan, went into a state of beatific darshan that threatened to destabilize our meal. It got worse when Glass and his companion sat at the table next to ours. My fellow diner was finally able to compose himself, give Glass props, and return to getting our eat on.
Suddenly another of my companions let out a piercing yell and pushed back from the table with great speed. Yes, there was a big old cockroach crawling up the tablecloth — not the short dark ones you often see in NYC kitchens, but a tropical-quality beast, two or three inches long (though not the flying kind). A minor tamasha ensued, during which Philip Glass turned to me and said, with an air of wisdom, “Don’t worry, they have very small appetites.”
Cockroaches happen; celebrity sightings happen too. But what was truly shocking was that the macacas brothers running the restaurant did not comp us even a round of drinks or dessert, let alone a meal, in recognition of the disgusting insect experience. I guess it shouldn’t have surprised us, seeing that they were already trying to seat a couple at a nearby two-top while the cockroach hunt was still on, but come on, what the hell kind of restaurant management is that? So, folks, if you go to Indus Valley at 100th and Broadway, watch out for big-ass cockroaches and don’t expect a discount.
Which brings me to the subject at hand. Perhaps in response to a desi dining landscape that, except in a few fortunate neighborhoods and towns, consists of the same old slop doled out from the same buffets, plus a few “nice” places that look fancy but aren’t necessarily up to snuff in the hygiene department, the idea of desi fast food — cheap, standardized and franchised — becomes a more and more compelling alternative.
We’ve mentioned this before, with reference to the Hot Breads bakery chain, but now here is another entrepreneur heading this way, this time from an unlikely starting point in New England:
Yogi Sood sits in front of his restaurant in the food court at the Burlington Mall talking strategy with his son. The conversation is not about recipes or vendors or price points. Their recipes already are great, their vendors steady, their prices fair.
Rather, this debate is about the speed at which they should conquer the world. Yogi, a 57-year-old retired engineer and the founder of Gourmet India, wants to do it quickly. Now. Yesterday.
“Fifty franchises in five years,” he says.
Vishnal Sood, 24, raises an eyebrow. He is deferential to his father but the eyebrow is ominous.
Yogi interprets: “My son thinks I’m a bit ambitious,” he says. Then he laughs.
The Soods’ company, Gourmet India, has franchises in well-selected, semi-upscale or well-trafficked malls in the Boston area. The idea is to make desi food ubiquitous in mall food courts. I would imagine there are other regional chains starting up in different parts of the country on exactly the same premise.
Still, a national chain? “It’s a big leap,” says Harry Balzer, an expert in the eating habits of Americans. “People’s taste changes very slowly.”
Sood is nonplussed. Indian food will be to the ethnic food market what Chinese food became 20 years ago, he says. He looks around the mall’s food court. Some of the heavy hitters of the franchise restaurant business are his neighbors: Pizzeria Regina, Johnny Rockets, Quiznos. “We’re already among the most popular here,” he says.
The article treads the usual ground (with a punning title too lame to repeat here): how the US market for desi food is different from the UK, etc. Still, the question is there and it’s surely worth a lot of money: what are the chances, and what would it take, to make desi food a ubiquitous option in the malls, airports and train stations of America, like pizza and Chinese?
tell that to the atheist. he seems to have come up short in his romantic forays into the tundra of canadduh.
me… thank you very much for your advice but no confusion here. i wear a nehru cap and shoes with curly toes whereever i go, just to stress the point home.
What I wouldn’t do for a Gol Gappa (Pani Puri) cart randomly on a street in Manhattan….
sigh
And, of course, the fact that Punjabi food may often be closer in taste and composition to Iranian or Mughlai cuisine does not mean that it is not actually Indian or that any statements asserting this fact are an attempt to insinuate that Punjabi food is somehow inherently less Indian than food from other parts of the subcontinent.
Now not only do the Punjabis look like Iranians, they also eat like them! Paging Jai’s detractors 😉
I am of course just kidding. I dont think Jai has to drop all these caveats. Most of us who have been coming to SM for a while know that Jai is not some closet racist.
Anyone know of good Desi restaurants (preferably south Indian) in Chicago , close to the loop and accessible by train?
BTW, here’s a tale… 1. buddy’s wife is seriously pregnant and hungry 2. buddy and wife head to desi place on Melrose 3. DPOM refuses to serve a la carte due to some timing stuff. 4. b & w go to parking lot and order takeout 5. DPoM throws in extra naan as takeout special 6. b goes in to pick up the food. 7. DPOM guy is open-mouthed 8. Tug-of-war ensues over naan-in-silverfoil
thats why they always recommend sitting outside and enjoying the “nice weather”. I should be paid commission for marketing!
my post was obviously a joke in case the humorless show up 8=) i would be insulted, offended even, if any compared it to a serious comment.
WORD! with a bhaiyaa sittin atop a stool in chokri style chabbaying paan. I want pao-bhaji now
I have had some amazing meals going and coming from JFK at Tandoori Hut in Richmond Hills, Queens. The place is rife with taxiwallahs, 1st generation desi famlies and intrepid EU tourists (wah?). Even though the menue is northern, the preparations are light and fresh. i.e, neither murky, swimming in stale oil, and uniformly brown. In fact, the food is made to oder to be prepared to wait a good while–like at home when the magic fairies aren’t on duty. DIshes to try are kati kebab, basic dal tarka and anything made with okra. The nan are beautiful, freshly made in a tandoor and the pickle is homemade, garlic, lime and mango.
FYI: Sometimes the cook goes on holiday. At those times the food reverts to basic northern indian restaurant fare: gut bombs.
I’ve tried the kati places in the village and the parathas are like carpets–in the case of one place, pre-made carpets. Yuck. Nothing compares to Badshah’s, across the street from New Market, in Kolkata. Small, light, flaky parathas, with or without egg, moist chicken kebab and loads of chopped fresh onion and lanka. Badshah’s any day over Nizam or Amber, although Nizam and Amber over kati places in the village.
There is the rise of indian fusion, which allows the food to be paired well with wine. In NYC, my favorite is a small east village place called raga. And the price is right too.
but if you’re oppossed to cultural genocide, don’t bother.
We have a dizzzying array of homogenized Indian joints in NYC. South Indian places that don’t do dosa/idlis don’t survive for some reason. As a pakka non-veg this is unfortunate for me. Amma– 51st 2nd/3rd …I’m told the food went downhill since the original chef(s) left. My fave place was Bombay Gardens in Jackson Heights opened by a sardar from Bombay, more foodie than businessman, he served up insanely good Hyderbadi dishes. Best place in the hood, sadly closed. I’d love to know where to get a sakkath Hyderbadi biryani now. Asaivam on Lex used to serve Chettinad cuisine but also closed. Surya and Mainland on Bleecker used to do interesting authentic “regional” non-veg dishes, both have retracted into what passes for “north indian” cuisine, read chicken tikka masala. When I got a real north indian craving I go Afghani–I like Khyber Pass on St. Marks alot. Banjara a hop away from the East 6th Street chop-shops has dishes from Rajastan to Goa that you rarely see in Indian restaurants. Prepared to be edumacated on Bharat’s culinary diversity. Indi-Chini Bhai-Bhai: All the ones in Manhattan have disappointed but Tangra Masala in Sunnyside is still off the hook.
brown. food. is sometimes brownish….
i luv most brown food…but, it doesn’t “present” well. to not put a fine point on it, it looks as it was chewed up and regurgitated. also, too spicey for most americans,* which is one reason that punjabi cuisine (tandoori?) is dominant in the USA, not because the food is tastier, but cuz there is less spice and more meat. right?
Based on these and previous comments, you make some serious generalizations about americans and america in general. The indian restaurant, that my mother goes to with her white coworkers is always filled with white americans. One of her white associates even asks the indian owner to fry a plate of hot peppers for him. The assumption that americans cannot handle spicey food is ridiculous, afterall america is the birthplace of hot wings that come in mild,hot and suicide levels of spiceyness. Most americans love mexican food, and that interest in different flavors and textures crosses over into appreciating and even loving indian food.
The lesson learned from your restaurant visit is if a cockroach is bold enough to visit you while you are eating, that usually means that it’s numerous extended family members have set up base camp in the kitchen.
For Indo-Afghani, I would recommend Bukhara. Its not anywhere as good as the original Bukhara in Delhi, but if you like meat, you’ll love it (its also Bill Clinton’s favorite restaurant in NY).
Among the fusions, I would take Ada over Tabla.
For vegetarian Gujurati, I’d recommend Kobayashi’s choice, the place is decked out like an Indian village (and has a faux well) though for the most part, you must sit cross-legged on benches.
The dearth of South Indian non-veg in NYC is a travesty, so I can’t really recommend. Same with Biriyani and Hyderabadi, though if you’re in the know, you can have it catered from aunties who make a second business out of it.
I also like mirchi in the West Village. Tak-tak street food and “sassy lassis”. Everything very hot. Run by a commanding Punjabi woman who plays techno music and decorates the place with clear bottles of chilis.
i took it upon myself to do a little research. i went to Naan and Beyond at a food court in downtown dc and got a decent lunch. i ordered the veggie thali and got saag, yellow dahl, rice, naan, mixed veggie curry, and chick pea curry (all for $7!). the food was OK, the presentation wasn’t bad either, and the best part: the oily goodness didn’t leak from the to-go container on my walk back to the office. not bad fast food.
Based on these and previous comments, you make some serious generalizations about americans and america in general.
really, generalizing about the average american toleration of spicey food is not serious.
For Indo-Afghani, I would recommend Bukhara. Its not anywhere as good as the original Bukhara in Delhi, but if you like meat, you’ll love it (its also Bill Clinton’s favorite restaurant in NY).
Whats the address for that?
Raga ain’t bad, much better than Cardoz’s Tabla. Don’t understand the hype of that place. And Mirchi closed months ago…alas the vagaries of the culinary hustle.
Al Mujahid:
217 E 49th St New York, NY 10017
(212) 888-2839
Its still open 🙂
How’s Lassi in the West Village? Brick Lane Curry House?
Devi was good, though we tried it when it first opened and haven’t been back since. Roomali is OK. Didn’t like Ada at all. Check out Sukhadia’s in Midtown for pretty good chaat.
We recently tried a Sri Lankan place–Sigiri–in the East Village on many recommendations. The food was OK, I thought.
are you sure he’s not just a crazy nigga?
color is only skin-deep, my friend.
AC — as down as you might be, use of the n word isn’t cool.
I am sad that Mirchi closed, if not anything else they had some good margaritas! Ada and tabla are both overrated but excellent service. Another cheap take out place with a killer chicken-makhani is Minar in midtown
I’ve heard SO MUCh about TANGRA. this weekend def gonna stop in queens for some CHILLI-CHICKEN
The armpit on the banner looks funny….
Tha armpit on banner number 63 looks funny.
Dalip ‘Giant’ Singh
If you’re eating uptown, I’d say Indian Cafe up on B’way between 107 and 108 streets. Upperwest – Mughlai on Columbus Avenue is delish (however, service needs improvement). Those two spots are parent-approved, by the way. Mom and Dad love Utsav, but my brother and I prefer the brunch at Chola. Tamarind is fabulous for date night; Vatan is great for groups.
Have you considered that the palmetto bug may have caught a ride into the restaurant in someone’s handbag?
As a white southerner who loves Indian food and culture, I’m doing my part to educate my cracker family on the joys of eating Indian food. They love it, both North and South Indian dishes and the heat has yet to scare them off, because afterall, they love eating peppers with their greens. BTW I read this blog often to learn more about Desi culture and for the acerbic, witty comments of Mr. Kobayashi.
Another Guju vegetarian place is Dimple, located on a nondescript side street in the 30s. Yes, you get pao bhajis there as well, and dosas. Its run by an enigmatic Gujurati couple who adorn the (rather stark) environment with Swaminaryan posters. If your looking for the Edison, NJ experience in Manhattan, this is the place to go – except that most of the patrons are non-Indian, and on a Sunday morning, are usually trying to recover from hangovers.
u guys are making me fk* hungree!!!! but there is no brown food restaurant nearby.
but there is no brown food restaurant nearby.
I am sure there is brown food around though not the desi type 😉
u guys are making me fk* hungree!!!! but there is no brown food restaurant nearby.
How do you get your fish-curry fix Razib? Do you cook yourself?
Not sure if it’s fast food, but Sarvanan in Manhattan serves ‘gourmet’ dosas and idlis and other Southern nosh at only mildly cut-throat prices.
Aw shucks Betsi. Flattery will get you all sorts of places.
(You too Kavita, don’t think I haven’t noticed…)
A Roach in a Manhattan restaurant..what a surprise!
A friend of mine from the UK used to say that British food looks very pleasant and tastes like crap, while Indian food tastes great but looks like crap.
How do you get your fish-curry fix Razib? Do you cook yourself?
i split my time between two townz. one is much more new age so there are more brown restaurants.
and yes, i used to cook myself a lot. less so now that i work so much. though i prefer shrimp & curry :=)
A friend of mine from the UK used to say that British food looks very pleasant and tastes like crap, while Indian food tastes great but looks like crap.
that’s a generalization. i can give you falsifying examples!
Funny how some slurs are acceptable but others aren’t.
N word – not acceptable, unless you’re a young black man and talking to your peer group. Or you’re a rap musician. However, I do remember a black friend referring to me as one of his N’s in college. I never felt so included…
Cracker – apparently OK for everyone. Dunno. I’ve only heard white people use the word.
Honkey – Brings back fond memories of the Jeffersons. Wish it would make a comeback. For some reason, my desi loving friend nicknamed me “honkey”, using it as term of endearment that usually spilled out at inappropriate or alcohol fueled occassions.
Macaca – Not acceptable, unless you’re a brownie or apparently George Allen.
Brownie – My personal favorite. I prefer it to Desi, actually. Seems socially acceptable for the most part too, but probably best used in familiar company.
Now that I think about it, it seems if you’re self describing, slurs are usually ok.
Ahem. Very.
But let the one who hasn’t consumed saag paneer cast the first stone…
In terms of visuals, I’d say the Vietnamese and Cambodians have things on lockdown.
It’s not a slur if you know the history behind it..at least for a Floridian. Have you heard of “Cracker” Architecture?
for all my brooklyn peoples in the sepiahouse. Please try Kinara on 5th ave in Park Slope. I think its at 12th Street? Great place. Very clean, descent service (for an indo place that is) amazing crab curry (eat in only) and their naan is hot from the tandoor crazy good. Give em a shot
So, this thread and a lunch trip to Chipotle brought up the inevtable question: Would Chipotle work in an Indian reincarnation (yeah, i know, but this whole thought may be a cliche:-))?
If you think so, what would replace (or not)each of these IYHO? Remember, it has to be wrapped and be easily taken to go and/or eaten in a cubicle. Eater may or may not be wearing a white shirt.
Tortilla Beans Onion/Green Peppers Spiced Meat Salsa Sour Cream Corn Guac Cheese Lettuce
i was wondering about this too, siddhartha. with townhouses going for 2mill a pop how do you afford live up there? bet you just like the prestige of such a prosperous zip code.
We used to have Frankies in Pune – and other places I’m sure – fast food kathi kababs. Tortilla, Onion, Spiced Meat
I’ve heard good things about Baluchi’s (forgive me if I messed up the spelling) – it’s what I understand to be Punjabi food. Any thoughts?
i like it. it’s kind of a mini chain here in ny. they have a chicken app as tender as marshmellows and a fried shrimp app stuffed with goat cheese. and the goan crab curry rocks.
You might be able to do it. Replace the tortilla with a fresh, buttery Naan. You get your meat options like Chicken Tikka Masala or maybe some lamb dishes. Perhaps a little raita for the spice weary. I envision it served like a Gyro. Side options could include ready to go Samosas.
Mmmmm.
Not traditional indian fair, but you’d get the benefit of fast food, Chipotle style.
p.s. I’d name it “Apu.”
Baluchi’s food is on point, just keep my caveat in mind. It can be the difference between a $17 lunch and a $34 one.
Siram:
And that food is a peacemaker, making this post a welcome one after all the more volatile issues that have been brought up recently.
Razib:
But there’s all that wilderness you love so much 😛 Ready to trade? It made me want Indian food too, so I’m just going to walk down the street to it.
I second Baluchis for lunch. Is Curry in a Hurry still open?
yeah, still best naan in town
thanks.