The word curry is a topic sure to rankle desis; the debunking of this colonial category is the rare cause that can unite desis of all origins and persuasions in a chorus of righteous indignation. And rightly so: The reduction of the subcontinentÂ’s rich foodways to this one invented label has caused any number of ills, not least the viscous glop known as tikka masala, and more than a few upset stomachs.
But just because curry isnÂ’t authentically Indian doesnÂ’t mean it isnÂ’t authentically… something. TodayÂ’s New York Times has a review of a new book called “Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors,” by Lizzie Collingham — a book I’m excited to read, despite the kind of horrible cover art that has Manish breaking out in hives. It invites us to follow as curry spread around the world, picking up bits and pieces from each culture like some syncretistic religion. Curry may or may not be Indian, but it sure is global:
Samoans make a Polynesian curry using canned fish and corned beef. … Lots of diners would balk at curried chicken Kiev, but not Ms. Collingham. … One of her goals, in tracing the evolution of curry and the global spread of Indian cuisine, is to pull the rug out from under the idea that India, or any other nation, ever had a cuisine that was not constantly in the process of assimilation and revision.
Books about a single food are a bit of a trend these days; at their best, like Cod, they offer a compelling alternate take on a major slice of world history; others, like The Potato, seem limited by their subject matter. This one seems especially rich, because the “food” whose story it tells is one itself born of cultural encounter, miscegenation and conflict.
The British, in this story, become less the corrupters of a culture than the unwitting enablers of a global cultural exchange that exceeds their own ability to imagine, let alone cook. They are left with tikka masala and curry chips, while the more interesting hybrids pop up elsewhere. For instance:
the “Mexican-Hindu” cuisine that appeared in California in the early 20th century when Punjabi laborers integrated jalapeño peppers and tortillas into their native dishes.
If anyone knows where that cuisine is served, give me a shout. IÂ’m free for dinner.
Hmm…dhaavak, did this Rashnaa place give you yoghurt, in any form except dessert, with you meal? I’ve only been to the two SL restaurants in NY (and now they’ve both closed) but it does seem like they try to make the food as “Indian” as possible, just so it appears more familiar to customers.
The strange thing is that Rashnaa means heat, so maybe the cook’s mom did die that day. Or maybe you’ve got a teflon mouth and even us Lankans can’t compete with your fire-lovin’ tastebuds 😉
cant remember the yogurt deal… maybe the cook was having a bad day … to tell you the truth… i went there a second time with the same hypothesis as yours… and ordered a masala dosai thinking this place is more indian than sl… but it was a limp biscuit … to tell you the truth i dont think there are any good indian restaurants in toronto … but maybe it’s not what i’m looking for … and the one who made the best indian food is gone …
thanks for the info on rashnaa = heat …
Have you tried Japanese Curry Rice? It is quite popular in Japan. Curry is believed to have reached Japan during WW1 times via India cook’s aboard ships.
Also I suspect everyone who knew how to cook Mughlai food left India and went to Karachi in 1947 along with the qawwali singers. What’s left seems to be staffed by a combination of reject truck drivers and Taj/Oberoi management trainees.
I recommend Karims in South Delhi. They have one of the best Mughlai that you will ever have. Eurodesi: You sound like a chichora Paki reject 😉
karims… ? is that the famous restaurant near jama masjid … ? i have a foggy memory of being led there by a family friend who swore that was the best place in all delhi to enjoy mutton chops and biryani … my memories are not so pleasant … i remember trodding over lots of rotting leaves or plants to get there – blue walls and lots of mirrors – and lots of people (hey… i was young) – … and then i remember seeing food being served in what looked like an aluminum container with a really wide lip with the broth sloshing over – if that’s the place you have in mind, i am sure that ambience and presentation were not their strong suit – although the food might have been exceptional
Karim’s in South Delhi – you mean Nizamuddin. Clearly, oh debauched mujahid, you are not up on received Delhi wisdom which holds that it is not a patch on the original up in Old Delhi. I’ve eaten at the Nizamuddin one and thought it was mediocre, but then I agree with dhaavak. I also ate at the Old Delhi one and thought it was mediocre too. I suspect the Mughals would agree with me.
(There is a good story about the old Karim’s back in the days: apparently you used to be greeted by a chap who asked you if you were a Musulman or a Kafir, so as to establish whether to serve you beef or not. Nowadays they just serve you what you order. Perhaps the food was better back then too.)
Speaking of spices, the spiciest thing (as far as I memory serves) american I have had is Blazin’ buffalo wings from BW3. And yes, I agree with dhaavak. Telguites, I think have immunity from spicies. While I was shooting video for timberlake song, and they kept on downing one after another. Try it if you dare. The girl at the counter did to me and I gave up after 4.
PS: If you want to save yourself, please avoid coke or pepsi with it.
A very very nice place to get super fresh food,the flavors are unbelievable but it helps to be a punjabi or ikh food conneseur to enjoy even better. the bread on the burritos isz not a naan but a prassata,it is the typical sikh/punjabi bread,a whole wheat hand cooked bread and the rest of their creations is unique and very tasty,i was seriously impressed,cash only well worth my trip from berkeley to mill valley.i give it a 9 out of ten.
Holy Crap! I just read this and had to respond! Such a cuisine exists though in the weirdest of places. One would think the Indo-Mexican hybrid would be in the Central Valley where agricultural laborers from India and Mexico hobnobbed together, arguing who’s cuisine has mo’ mirch. I introduce you to Avatar’s Punjabi Burrito’s in bizarro Mill Valley, CA, 10 minutes North of SF, home to bohemians, sexual healers, old-money, anarchists, Deepak Chopra-offshoots, and a Ferrari dealership.
Come to SF. It’s on me bro.
Crap. Sonia already plugged it. Woops. Man, I feel deflated, I thought I was adding something.
(going back in hole)
Have you tried Russian Curry Rice? It is quite popular in Russia.
thanks for sharing this beautiful post… i liked it very much…