Chutney Lady

The Gray Lady discovers chaat. Next, they’ll be telling their readers about this great new thing called roti 🙂 But then the piece goes all sensual on you:

The contrasts are, as one fan said, “a steeplechase for your mouth,” with different sensations galloping by faster than you can track them… Chaats can be made with almost anything crispy: … fresh ginger, mung bean sprouts and spice-dusted toasted lentils. Chaat masala usually includes amchoor, a tangy powder made from green mangoes, mint, cumin and pomegranate, but it must always include kala namak, a black salt with a pleasant whiff of sulfur… “In India a guy might have a Mercedes and live in a house on a hill, but he still puts on his slippers and goes to eat chaat…”

A fine tribute to pani puri… by Ganghadar Gopal Gadgil… “In that state of beatitude the Maharashtrians stop being surly, the Marwaris look at the millions of stars without being reminded of their own millions, the Sindhis admire the horizon without any intention of selling it, the Gujaratis speculate on the moon instead of the scrips they should have sold, the North Indians dream of things other than Hindi as the official language of the United Nations, and even the Parsi ladies stop nagging their husbands.”

Be still my gurgling stomach. And, more importantly, the story tells you where to get your fix, though Dimple’s been open for years:

… two popular, top-quality chaat specialists have opened in Midtown Manhattan: Dimple Fast Food and Sukhadia’s Sweets. Manhattan has lately been seized by a craze for Indian snacks, with upscale new places like Spice Market, Bombay Talkie, Von Singh’s, Devi, Lassi and Babu all claiming Indian street food as an inspiration…

… Chowpatty Foods [of Iselin, NJ]… has just imported a chaat cart from India in the red-and-white color scheme of the Chowpatty chaat wallahs… a traditional chaat wallah sits surrounded by his mounds of dry ingredients… and his own mix of jal-jeera, the “firewater” that is used to fill the habit-forming pani puri.

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12 thoughts on “Chutney Lady

  1. I was thinking the same thing. and a big fat masala chai to wash it down with.

  2. There’s a Sukhadia’s in Chicago too on Devon Street that has the most amazing snacks. Chowpatty in Edison has had that chaat vendor stall for as long as I can remember. It’s only a matter of time until we see bonafide chaatwalas setting up shop next to newspaper stands.

  3. Chaatwala… From the people who brought you “Oregon Chai,” I believe, chaat is now being served in two non-Indian (yet, strangely Cost-Plus Indian), teashops in Portland.

    (I’ll see if I can find the names so we can appropriately express outrage and indignation)

  4. It totally bugged me how the article implied that Chaat coming to NY was the same as it’s coming to America. Yeah, through indirect quotes, but still. We’ve had plenty of great Chaat on the west coast for years.

  5. We’ve had plenty of great Chaat on the west coast for years.

    Don’t forget Edison, Jackson Heights and Jersey City in the NYC area, which this story glosses over. They all serve real chaat.

  6. Sadly though, Manish, as far as being on mainstream radar, Jackson Heights may as well be another country. Only now has the neighborhood taken on some weird cache, instead of being the weekly pitstop for those wanting to stock up for the month from Sabji Mandi

  7. I had dimple yesterday…mmmm. I felt a little guilty about it, because I heard some rumors that they were guilty of some labor violations. Not that a million desi restaurants aren’t, but I think dimple was actually targeted by a group i respect a lot. but i was a captive audience b/c i was there for a meeting, and the chaat is so good, and, well, intentions, awry, tell me about the rabbits, you know the deal.